Review: Thoreau Restaurant

I recently had dinner at a new B.Y.O.B. in Philly Thoreau (1033 Spring Garden Street, 215-232-9001) which bills itself as a "vegetarian grille." But it's really much more than its name suggests. Not only are the portions (both appetizers and entrees) very generous in size, but they are enriched with unique flavors borrowed, in part, from Latin American, Indian and French cuisines.

I started out with the sliders, which feature ratatouille in basil pumpkin seed pesto, creamy Spanish manchego cheese and red pepper aioli pressed between small buns that are topped with very crisp and very thin Belgian frites. The starter alone could substitute as an entree. The flavors are both sharp and sweet.

Other appetizers include a Buffalo blue blini with mascarpone cream and tangy carrot chile; green curry mango summer rolls with fresh mango and a curry glaze; as well as the macadamia black bean cakes and plantains serrano with tostones and avocado-red lentil roasted corn.

There are also several salads available, which tend to get overlooked given the range of more exotic dishes. Vegetarians, on the whole, end up ordering a lot of salads in restaurants when meat-free alternatives are missing. In this case, I was more interested in sampling the heavy hitters, which led me to the wild mushroom risotto as my main course.

Soaked in an ancho chile marsala broth, this hearty dish is perfect for when there's snow on the ground. It features creamy pumpkin-green apple Arborio rice risotto with basil mascarpone and wild and exotic oyster and shiitake mushrooms. Rich doesn't even begin to describe the flavor.

Meanwhile, my dinner guest opted for a special shepherd's pie (pictured above) that was like no shepherd's pie I have ever seen. It was served with creamy, whipped potatoes rising out of a green avocado and coconut milk stew of vegetables, potatoes and spices. While it didn't look anything like traditional shepherd's pie, it had an earthy taste, thanks to very fresh, thoughtful ingredients plucked from the chef's backyard garden - an interesting anecdote to most of the dishes on the menu. The ingredients are farm fresh and organic.

After such a memorable dinner, I'd be interested in trying the restaurant's more casual fare for lunch, including a Dagwood Cubano made with cucumber, roasted peppers, sharp provolone, Catalina mayo pressed between focaccia and served with baby greens in maple-mustard vinaigrette. Thoreau also serves blue corn asparagus tacos and more traditional falafel.

The only criticism I have of the restaurant is its lack of interior charm. While the decor is pure and sparse with white cloth tablecloths and napkins (a must since entrees start at $20 each), the lighting is brighter than necessary and the modern, angular art doesn't really relate to the richness and earthiness of the menu. The tables (which are very small) are also too close in proximity, making it difficult to navigate or to share a private conversation. A bright street lamp shines onto the window tables, which also detracts from any potential ambiance.

Thoreau is also presently a B.Y.O.B., but it's awaiting a liquor license that will allow wine and beer to be paired with seasonal dishes.

Overall, this creative eatery is a much-needed addition to a neighborhood struggling for an identity (Thoreau is directly across the street from the unfortunately named Spaghetti Warehouse). I'd suggest stopping into the nearby Prohibition Taproom (501 N. 13th Street, 215-238-1818) for a before or after dinner drink. The bartenders know their craft beers and classic cocktails.